AW12 Illustrated

by Christian Lacroix - from Tank Volume 7, Issue 6

Nina Ricci
Mary Katratzou

Neil Barett and Max Mara
Haider Ackerman
Proenza Schouler
Alexander McQueen

The film outside the frame

The cinematic viewing space can interfere with the film experience. More, when the director is present at the scene, modifying live the viewer’s perception over the image it’s undoubtedly a unique way of doing and seeing film.

Malcom Le Grice, major figure in the development of experimental film in the UK set out three of his films at Filmaktion, event organized by Tate Modern. Starting from the idea that a film ‘should’ be presented in a square (the screen), his films are showing the opposite: the projection runs from ‘the square' as if its images want to hide outside the frame. Repetitive symbols like Mona Lisa’s smile, coloured squares or even sounds, mixed together with the film maker’s steps on the cold stone floor offers the spectator a distinctive way to gain its own ‘politics of perception’, this being the only way to decipher the signs.

Is this maybe the reason why most of the times the projection on the wall is seen different from the reality of the self? Film & Action! 

Doll Face

The 'magic system' of media makes the reader to wish for the perfection. But no matter how much she/ he  tries, reaching this is beyond possible. Film by Andy Huang.

The psychedelic fashion illustration

Antonio Lopez, one of the biggest artists on the fashion scene in the 60s and 70s pictured with his psychedelic illustrations a new view over the fashion of the time. Psychedelic becomes in this context a new form of art born in 1967 from Antonio's work. 
His art promoted a different perspective of the youth and street culture, which led him onto the pages of the biggest titles such as Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Interview or New York Times. Vibrant colours are statement for the work he done for almost four decades and interpretations and perceptions of  faces like Grace Jones's are his signature.  

Grace Jones sketch

ANTONIO LOPEZ: Fashion, Art, Sex & Disco is the newest and the first complete monograph of the influential fashion artist, out now.

Andre Courreges and the Moon Girl

Humans did not walk on the moon until 1969, but their imminent arrival and the space exploration during the 1960s contributed a lot to a new way of interpreting and designing fashion. It was a period when designers of both clothes and textiles celebrated modernity and scientific progress. Many of the decade’s designers were influenced by space, but the one who had a stronger vision about the relation between future and fashion, was the French designer André Courrèges.

He opened his House in 1961, after he worked for ten years under Cristóbal Balenciaga from which he learned the innovative approach to design. One of the designer’s first innovations was to replace the LBD with the little white dress and he started to use futuristic fabrics, including PVC and vinyl. The year 1964 was marked by the Courrèges Moon Girl, the way that Vogue was describing the spring collection: ‘Courrèges clearly dreams of moon parties’. The white and silver collection with sheer chiffon tops thigh-high skirts in geometric shapes was central to the space-race fashion of the mid-1960s. The flat square-toed white boots became as well internationally adopted.

The Space Age collection unveiled architectural shape clothes like double-buttoned coats with contrasting trim, well-tailored shirts or short-sleeves mini-dresses with dropped waist. Vivid shades of pink, orange, green and navy complemented the designer’s bold white and silver. The accessories were made to accentuate the clothes by oversized, white, tennis-ball sunglasses or goggles, gloves and helmet-shaped hats.
Courrèges visionary approach to fashion was represented by minimalistic geometric lines, using as less decorations and ornamentations as possible. 

Though, his most characteristic symbol, often covering the dresses and bare body parts was the ‘youthful daisy’, Courrèges’s fashion emphasized technologically advanced synthetic materials like shiny, wet-look PVC, easy-care acrylics and polyesters.

Pastel Origami by Fred Butler

Wearing the right accessory can be sometimes a challenge. Because wearing one right accessory can make your outfit look ten times better. That's when 'statement' proves the theory of adornments.

Fred Butler's signature is, as she name it, 'wearable sculpture, intricate texture, strong colour contrast'. So, for her new AW12 collection the designer mixed candy coloured wreathes, origami and knits into something that definitely stands out. A new, very exciting name onto London's fashion scene.

Poems by Corina Vladescu

Set in a very soft, romantic light, like in the photos taken by Alina Negoita, the new collection of Poems by Corina Vladescu, named 'Young Blood' talks through its garments about stories of neo-punk-new baroque mixed with feminine details like embroidery and frills.

Inspired by latin roots, the prints are manually made by the designer on fabrics like tweeds and batiste.

Photo Credit - Fashion & Beauty